Cordelette anchor. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette.

Cordelette anchor The length varies depending on how much flexibility you want, varying between 5 to 7 metres of 7mm perlon cord (£1 / 33g per metre). This is a quintessential skill for multi-pitch trad Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. You must be a member to access this course. Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. Dec 25, 2013 · William Rhyne wrote: What is the thinest cordelette you use? How thin can you go A few companies make cordletee with high-tech fibers (Kevlar, Technora, UHMWPE, Vectran, ect) in the 5-5. Cord Materials Make sure to read about these useful cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I first started out on my climbing and hiking adventures. Cordelette Anchor with Whttps://rockclimb. video----------Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is des How do you make a Cordelette anchor? Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. 5 meters long or a hollow block, an ATC, quick draws, and a harness. +1 for powercord. Voi la, you have a cordelette and can use it to (kind of) equalize three anchors. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Will You Need Gear? This clinic will use a 5mm cordelette 1. 120 cm: too short, unless the anchors are I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. There is a faster, easier, and often equally safe solution: the "alpine anchor. It's sold by the foot or in sections: 20- or 30-foot sections are common lengths. Always thought 7mm was standard. They sold me 5mm cord for the prussic and 7mm for the anchor. But, on snow or lower angle alpine ice, you can build anchors usually pretty much wherever you want to, and usually the impact of a Climbing Cord Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid climbing. video ---------- FLAT OVERHAND FOR CORDELETTE A Flat Overhand is not as strong as a Double Fisherman’s knot to tie a cordelette in a loop. Equalize belay anchors with the cordelette - Illustration from climbing magazine. You might be here a while, so make sure it’s comfortable. Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. I use it for my cordelette anchors and chalk bag strap in case I need extra bail gear on a multi-pitch. Jul 3, 2012 · In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. Aug 23, 2015 · I have climbed for a long time, but I want to switch to cordelette anchors for speed on multipitch. Obviously you're already getting most of that benefit from the dynamic rope. In this video we review considerations for building a traditional anchor with slings, in the case where a cordelette is not available. Simple, strong, and field-adaptable. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. A cordelette can be any length, but 20' - 24' is common, long enough to create an entire three-point anchor in an efficient scenario. Alternatively, unfasten the double-fisherman’s bend and tie a figure-8 loop in each end of the cordelette. There are three lengths you could use for a quad: 120 cm, 180 cm, and 240 cm. My question is: Given two fixed bolts, would it be better to use a Quad or two quickdraws to build an anchor? My guess is that the quickdraws are fine if you are just leading once and then Feb 16, 2019 · But if you are using a quad for only two pieces you just double the cordelette and tie an overhand on each side to create the pocket. Hey guys, I've been leading in the gym for a while now and am just getting into climbing outside. The likely reason for this is that most parties downclimb this section. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. (Your belayer will thank you, too. 7 mm perlon is perfect as it has a high breaking strain (11kn when new!), yet is still compact enough to be How to Build an Equalized Cordelette Anchor 1. At 18. Most prices in an anchor are within arms reach if you, so 20meters is a bit much. Longer ones (such as the 20 footers that some people recommend) are too cumbersome for me, and I find that it takes too much fussing around while breaking them down from the anchor and re-racking them onto my harness. Generally I’ll carry one or two that are about 15 to 17 feet in length. /5. Step 2: Using a shoulder length . 5kn 7mm is between 13. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! The Double Sling You can also set up a top rope anchor with two slings, which can be faster and easier than using a cordelette, though it’s a little harder to equalize if the bolts are staggered. Great, you now have some material for emergency anchors. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. So, it's kind of a wash. Which should I invest in and which is more versatile and why. What's the advantage of this over a 120 or 240cm sling? Cheers, Michael Dec 7, 2023 · To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. Find a good stance. The weight saving wasn't enough for me to go 6mm A longer cordelette will give you more range for tying together anchor points that are far apart and will also offer more opportunities to sling larger objects. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). Learn all about it here. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. " trueI am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. Use the Cypher Cordelette in a variety of climbing applications, from building anchors to tying prusiks. I like to be able to monitor the pieces in my anchor and it looks like a 20 ft cordelette would put you so far away that it would be difficult to see the pieces. Place a piece. Dec 19, 2012 · Cordelettes "Cordelette" is a fancy French word for a rope tied into a circle or loop. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. E. This setup is efficient, adaptable, and ideal for environments where anchor There are many ways to make a climbing anchor. I went to an outdoor shop and said I wanted cord for a top rope anchor cordelette and an prussik knot. Using this redundant and full-strength clip-in spot keeps the master point free for the belay device and for your follower (or followers) to clip into. Disadvantages to carrying a longer cordelette mostly have to do with ease of use and, of course, weight. - page 12 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. However, you should belay from the top of the route when the anchor is in a poor position to lower from or abseil, or if you intend to walk off the top. The 7mm cord is a very strong, durable, versatile piece of gear that can be used climbing, especially to make an anchor. While good placements should always be your first priority, it helps to look for a big ledge from which to build your anchor. My main concern is in redundancy with the cordelette. Long slings or cordelette for building anchors. Hey climbers! If you're looking for a seriously versatile piece of gear that can handle multiple jobs, this Cypher Cordelette is exactly what you need. I go over how the cordelette Trad. Oct 23, 2025 · Equalizing anchors. I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Cordelette or an Equalette? Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Clip one sling to each hanging carabiner. Answer: Dear Quinn, I use cordellettes myself, though not as much as I used to. Step 1 - Equalize Attach a cordelette to the anchor in the same way as if you were setting up a top rope. PLEASE READ: In this video we show you the basic cordelette anchor, used most commonly for top roping and belay stations on multipitch. Picture it: you get to the end of a pitch, fire in two bomber stoppers and a cam, clip them all with the Sterling PowerCord 6mm Cordelette, and tie an overhand or figure-eight knot. Oct 27, 2010 · Building anchors is a vital skill for any trad climber. 8kn vs 12. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review considerations for building a traditional anchor with slings, in the case where a Follow the basic SARENE-SA anchor principles: S olid A nchors R edundant E qualized N o E xtension S mall A ngles Placing protection: Connecting the placements: Pass a cordelette through the carabiner of each placement Pull down bights between each placement Tie all bights with an Overhand or Figure Eight on a Bight Traditional belay off the anchor: Belay with an autoblocking device off the We don't use them here in the UK very much, but should we?Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. For most sport climbs, you will belay from the bottom – just like you would at the indoor gym. I slung a hay-bale-size rock with a new runner and belayed two of my partners down into the short gap before removing the runner. Apr 8, 2019 · Cordelette on a tree: caution on the shelf Say you have a standard cordelette tied in a big loop, and you want to use it to build an anchor on a stout tree or a rock pillar, aka a “monolith” (one piece) anchor. trueI'd be ready to do all three if I were you. Traditional quad anchor rigged with 7mm cordelette. Three millimeter Dyneema in a 3-piece anchor should exceed the strength of the carabiner There was just a single weathered-looking cordelette anchor in place, unlike the multiple slings at previous rappel anchors on the traverse. But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. It’s designed to distribute load between two anchor points while incorporating limiting knots to reduce extension and manage system stability in the event of anchor failure. I use cordelette's almost exclusively when building gear anchors, while I choose Sliding X's for two bolt anchors. May 18, 2025 · Build a 3x1 in-line cordelette anchor for balanced load sharing across three points. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. To do this you may need a mix of shoulder length slings and double length slings. To make a cordelette, take an 18–20 ft. Prerequisites: Lead certified through Crux. Its versatile 7 millimeter diameter is strong yet lightweight, and the 5. Feb 27, 2025 · If you climb a lot, you probably wanna retire your lead cordelette from regular anchor duty after about a year. Jul 6, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 5mm range. Nov 27, 2018 · On longer alpine climbs, bringing a cordelette gives you a ready-made source of material for rappel anchors. I am purchasing a set of Djinn Axess quickdraws and already have everything to construct a cordelette anchor. Reply reply More replies Individual-Channel65 • Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on the wall If you’ve been paying attention at the crag or to social media, you might have seen a girth hitch used as the masterpoint of a belay anchor—like, tied in the cordelette or sling the masterpoint locker is clipped to. Detailed guides explain how to build a trad anchor with cordelette. This has two main advantages over the standard overhand knot. For #2, it's generally now accepted that the tests were flawed and did not take into account real world situations. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. 5mm. Mar 15, 2022 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and easy self-equalizing quad anchor Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. Although it’s not required to have your own gear, it’s highly Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. ” Screen grab below of overhand knot; See the video here. Some climbers will still I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Mar 23, 2020 · Hi all, I keep seeing references to cordelette, especially for equalising/creating a master/power point between multiple piece trad anchors. Lock the gates Bluewater does make a 7mm dynamic prusik cord which could be used to make a cordelette, however a dynamic cordelette absolutely will not provide improved equalisation. 8 feet long and 8mm thick, this blue nylon rope is the perfect balance of strength and lightweight performance. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. Anything more and you’re just carrying bulk for the fun of it. In this post we detail the methods to help you safely discover multipitch climbing. I take a cordelette to be a long length (how long?) of 7mm static cord joined into a loop with a double fisherman's knot. Or worse cutting my more expensive sewn runners. Trad. Cordelette - Rock Climb ← → Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. I like that also but my powercord gets more use, of the two Aug 25, 2015 · In the case of the photo, a 15 ft cordelette would probably be perfect. Price and other details may vary based on product size and color. I tie the cordelette into a loop with a double fisherman’s knot (with 4-6″ tail), and then construct the cordelette into a pre or self-equalized extension using regular biners at the bolts (or individual pro). Is the Dec 9, 2008 · The drawbacks were, like the cordelette, these anchors were primarily set for one direction of pull. 3). Here is my rule of thumb Dec 18, 2014 · On a standard cordelette anchor built with at least two attachment points, it sits right above the knot. Sep 21, 2018 · If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. Cordelette Anchor with Super 8 https://rockclimb. Mar 29, 2019 · In this video about building multi piece gear anchors, he says at about 2:20: “I fix the optimum height of the anchor by tying an overhand knot (in the open cordelette). If you read the climbing anchors books, you'll get a reasoned argument why a cordelette isn't going to truly equalize your anchor, but in practice, it's close enough as long as you tie it while loading it in the direction of pull. buymeacoffee. Building and cleaning single-pitch sport anchors while on belay. It's a very cost effective approach compared to buying what is packaged as a cordelette. As with a static cordelette, if one arm is longer than another, the longer arm will take less of the load. Learn the essentials for building a safe and quick climbing rope anchor. Learn a few here. Cord comes in diameters from 1mm up to 9mm, sometimes greater. How to build the perfect climbing rope anchor. A weakness not touched Cordelette 101 - How to set a belay using a cordelette from Gunks. Username Password Remember Me Forgot Password 3×1 Cordelette Load Sharing Anchor Read More » 2. Step 1: Place three solid pieces of gear. As another posted, try it out and you decide. I slung my big bro with the bluewater titan cord. Cordelettes are typically equalized with an overhand knot, but in more complicated belays, a self-equalizing climbing anchor is. 75M (18. Nothing really wrong with it, just big and bulky. Another way to do this is to use a cordelette (20-30 feet of 7 mil diameter cord) to extend the anchor. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman’s knot to tie the cord into one big loop. Feb 28, 2017 · By Scott Perkins, Head Guide 1) S. With the bunny ears rig, the small loop knots are usually fairly easy to untie, giving you more rap anchor material. Cordelette Craft: Extending the Central Point If you would prefer to use a cordelette to equalize the anchor (rather than the rope), but it isn’t long enough, try extending the furthest away piece with a sling. ) 2. 8kN (2,200 lbf) for a single strand 8mm cord 12. What are they? May 3, 2024 · The Sterling PowerCord 6mm Cordelette links multiple pieces of protection together in seconds to create an equalized anchor without the need for any other slings. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sl Many climbers bring around 20 feet of cord for building and equalizing anchors, but these cordelettes can be a hassle to carry on your harness. Both are static, the shop employee told me it's better not to use static for top rope anchors. 8kN (2,877 lbf) for a single strand Length: 5. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum Strong and versatile, the 8 mm Sterling Alpine Accessory Cord will come in handy for everything from creating prusiks and cordelette to building anchors and more. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. The more I climb, though, the more I run into situations where pitches are traversing leading up to, or coming out of the anchor (or both!), and I start to wonder how a swinging leader or follower fall onto the anchor would impact Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. You’ll need: Two nylon or Dyneema slings of equal length Four locking carabiners The setup: Clip locking carabiners to each anchor point. A cordelette is similar to a sling, but made out of 6 - 7 mm accessory cord instead of webbing, and typically much longer. Even if you’re standing on a big ledge, clip yourself into a solid piece of protection 1-48 of 69 results for "cordelette" Results Check each product page for other buying options. 8 feet) Warning: Always use 25 feet is plenty in a cordelette format. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. If you REALLY need to save weight, you could get some 3mm SK-75 Dyneema and have it spliced together. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. In this video, Miranda demonstrates three different Dec 9, 2008 · Making a cordelette is cheap and easy, and although you can buy ready-made slings (Wild country Cordlette 135g £20), making your own has many advantages. In this episode I cover cordelette and webolette anchors. 12 votes, 46 comments. 75 meter length offers plenty of room to customize the cord to your needs. You may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. R. 5. You'll need to attach yourself to the trad anchor in a way that you can see your partner as they follow the pitch and brace yourself if they fall But, dynamically equalized anchors really don't dynamically equalize in anything more than a 2-point anchor and, even then, equalize poorly due to clutch effect. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor into, can hold 2 tie-in points with Oct 6, 2009 · The extra 40mm I cut into corelettes when I need more, if I am new routing in the mountains I might bring an extra cordelette for rappel or miscealaneous anchors. Aug 20, 2009 · The Sterling PowerCord 6mm Cordelette links multiple pieces of protection together in seconds to create an equalized anchor without the need for any other slings. (While you can use a longer cordelette, many people find that a 180 cm or maybe 240 cm Dyneema sling, that’s 10 or 11 mm and fairly new, to be a more compact and lightweight option. I wondered if its true, so I want to ask you all Do any of Sep 27, 2019 · Here's an unconventional approach to anchor building - tie a girth hitch at the master point. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. To be honest the lack of knowledge from the employees has got me wondering. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the Cordelette https://rockclimb. ) Here's a simple variation: the “offset quad”. Then clip 3 of the four strands (so, if one anchor failed the quad doesn’t simply slide through your carabiner at the power point). Advanced trad anchors. Dec 5, 2016 · You are free: to share – to copy, distribute and transmit the work to remix – to adapt the work to share – to copy, distribute and transmit the work to remix – to adapt the work Under the following conditions: attribution – You must give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made. You now have an equalized, three-piece anchor with May 12, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. 7mm cord 9. Placing and clipping quick-draws 3. The big difference was that the belayer had far more control, and by adjusting clove hitches they could tighten or slacken the legs of the belay so as to make adjustments. May 18, 2025 · 2×1 Equalette Load Sharing Anchor with Limiting Knots The 2×1 equalette anchor is a refined variation of traditional cordelette systems. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. I mentally check the anchor for any proble For three or more points, a cordelette can be used, or techniques like nested equalization can be employed, forming multi-point trad anchors. The next in a multi-episode series on Anchors. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Versatile and strong, the 7 mm Sterling Alpine accessory cord will come in handy for everything from creating cordelette and prusiks to building anchors and more. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. As such, I use the 5. com web site. You can use it for pretty much everything - building anchors, setting up prusiks, or any situation where you need a reliable Apr 7, 2021 · The standard quad anchor works great for many anchor setups where you have two reliable bolts or ice screws. N. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. anchor when constructing a gear belay 2) Tie a ‘Quad’ for 2 piece belays and top ropes 3) Create an extended rappel with 3rd hand Autoblock 4) Escape a belay 5) Ascend a rope 6) Tie a “rescue spider” for tandem rappels 7) Cut it up for bail anchors 8) Lower a climber past a knot or rappel past a knot 9) Construct a hauling system 10) As an Apr 13, 2020 · Want to learn how to build climbing anchors? This introduction covers important concepts such as SERENE-SA to get you started in the right direction. For a Prusik I carry a bluewater 7mm VT Prusik. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. adpsb ris wwvrc vbk wvsaw xhjm netubrot ofrqtky zwzg ritvxe ykuqdyvy japi kfrcn umt evfjyh