How to self belay with atc. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7.

How to self belay with atc 7 to 10. Rappelling with a rope that is not long enough. However, modern abseil solution usually extend the belay plate with a sling/tape. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. Sep 13, 2021 · How does ATC pilot work? Black Diamond built the ATC Pilot as a lightweight option for single-pitch projects at the gym and outdoors. It can be just as intense and thrilling. Jun 1, 2021 · Self-belaying is relatively safer if you’re aware of which self-belaying system and technique suit your style. The end of the rope which passes through the top-rope anchor and goes back down to the climber is called the "live" end of the rope. The ATC Pilot does this by simply pinching the rope between your belay ‘biner and the device when the rope is weighted, whereas some other devices, like the Petzl GRIGRI, use camming mechanisms to grab the rope. In order to rappel with an ATC, follow these straightforward steps: Make sure that your harness and anchors are set up properly and securely. I'm just saying, dynamic belay and soft catch are more or less interchangeable. Extending your belay device can be a lifesaver on tricky multi-pitch abseils. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for belay assists, rope management, and how to extend yourself lower using the rope so you can have a view of your partner as they climb. Climbing alone is one way of getting around the lack of a partner. Another reason to avoid tying an 8 on a bight or other knot below the atc, is that it's generally impossible to release it after it's loaded. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. When dealing with a . With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. The durable steel braking surface has no moving parts, and the smooth and secure control The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. This is the recommended method by many climbing schools today. Jan 24, 2024 · Atc Belay Device How To Use? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. Apr 28, 2025 · Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. I was skeptical about the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot when it was first released because there are numerous similar devices already on the market. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Join StoneMan Climbing Co. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. When belaying directly from the anchor with a self-blocking belay device (such as an ATC in guide mode) or an assisted braking belay device (such as a GriGri), you have already escaped the belay. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. letting a little rope slide through, that are not safely available with a gri gri. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Ascending on a rope. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “ auto-blocking ” to catch their falls. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Nov 5, 2013 · Belaying well involves more than just holding the rope for your partner. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Using an ATC or GriGri requires a significant amount of attention to the activity of the climber. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. When there’s a top rope already hanging, it’s easy to see whether or not both ends reach the ground. 5 mm range. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. If you struggle to get it through the slot, try pinching it more sharply, perhaps even using your teeth! Method #1: Belaying From Above Using A Direct Belay In the direct belay method, the belay device is secured directly on the belay anchor. Prussik below the atc girth hitched to my leg loop. In this instructional video, Adam Barczack demonstrates the proper way to belay. Nov 20, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills. Dec 13, 2023 · But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Feb 3, 2022 · Unlike a standard belaying scenario, the rope goes directly from the anchor through the self-belay device of choice on the climber’s belay loop. Belay device ATC Guide ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. Feb 22, 2020 · Ultimately, we recommend extending your rappel and using an autoblock backup below the belay device. Nov 22, 2021 · What is ATC in rock climbing? The term “ATC” stands for “air traffic controller,” which was originally the name of one of Black Diamond Equipment’s belay devices, and has now been the standard term for all the brand’s devices with the same design. However, there are pros and cons to each backup technique, so it’s important to understand each method’s benefits and limitations before trying it out at the crag. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. It’s certainly not for beginners, but you can get good at it after a decent amount of practice with belay devices. . The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Equipment Used: Petzl Reverso* (Similar to an ATC) + Black Diamond Autolocking Search "belay device" @TheRockClubNY ATC or Grigri? #climbing #belaying 3. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Nov 21, 2025 · Belaying itself is relatively simple provided one is always paying attention to your climbing partner. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. ” It’s a type of belay and rappel device introduced by Black Diamond. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. The prussik is just a brake, there is no need for it to be attached to your belay loop. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. The belayer is not attached directly to the belay device. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. g. There are numerous methods of setting up a self belay when lone climbing. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Jul 13, 2018 · What it is From Black Diamond: The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Its construction is based on the early Sticht plate. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. It’s important to pull in and feed out rope at the correct times. His prussic self belay knot likely became caught in his belay device as he sought to stop at an intermediate belay ledge and he slid off the end of the doubled rappel rope high above the ground. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. I used to use a Figure 8 primarily for canyoneering, because I liked it better than an ATC in certain situations. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant and makes our team happy and confident The Report found that failure of Jim's self belay system contributed to his death. The ATC device provides friction on the rope, allowing for controlled belaying and smooth rope handling. As it turns out, this device is for the climbing gym or the crag. This is my Rope Prep for Lead Belaying How To Lead Belay Additional Safety Considerations Rope Prep for Lead Belaying Before you start lead belaying, do these three things to set yourself up for success. Begin by closing the system with a stopper knot at the end of the rope, preventing it from slipping entirely through the belay device and causing the climber to drop. A description of the proper technique for lead belaying for sport or traditional rock climbing. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. Simple too. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. I own an ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, springless Sticht plate, GriGri, CT-Alpine Up, a chain link and various homemade belay devices. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. When belaying, you can tie-off your belay device. There are different types of belay devices and the belay technique may… How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Aug 30, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. And that locks the belay device preventing rope from feeding in the opposite direction. 6K Dislike Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your The ATC is a dynamic belay device. You do not thread the same rope through both slots. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. A short sling can be used eliminating the need for using a knot or a long one with a knot in the middle. But I’m a huge gear nerd, so I had to try it out this assisted braking belay device. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Mar 9, 2021 · Pull Out Your Belay Device I’m going to teach you how to rappel with an ATC, since that’s what I personally recommend, and it tends to be the most widely used device for this activity. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Jun 21, 2023 · Belaying is the method by which a person maintains friction on a rope to keep the attached climber from falling or falling to the ground. So this way, in case the climber were to take a fall all you need to do as the belayer is pull down. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. This is a feature available in the Petzl Reverso line as well, but the key difference is that the carabiner eyelet is oriented perpendicular to that of the Reverso. Dec 12, 2022 · Ever wondered if you have the skills to get yourself out of a sticky situation while multi-pitch climbing? If you haven’t, you should. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. more Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. 00:00 Introduction 01:18 Preparation 07:11 Belaying 13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assistance Ana bergamaschi, Charlie Farrow A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. This video teaches you how to attach your rope to your belay device and harness. Nov 22, 2021 · Can you self belay with ATC? Moreover, in the case of the seconding climber belay from top rope belay we can use self-locking feature of this belay device. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Any tube style belay device will do the trick, though, and I suggest you use one with teeth to add more friction to the rope as you descend. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. This article explains how to extend a belay device. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Nov 6, 2022 · In top rope climbing, as the climber advances upwards, the partner belaying takes in slack and pulls the rope down over the edge of the ATC into the braking plane, so they are ready to arrest a fall. Feb 25, 2015 · If a climbing partner is seriously injured, and there are limited resources to get help, it may be necessary to tie off the climbing rope to remove yourself from the belay system, so you can investigate, help your partner, or go for help. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. ) So, I started asking questions. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. How to Set Up an ATC Belay Device - Beginner Rock Climbing Tutorial #3 #rockclimbingtutorial Passin' Me By (Instrumental) · The Pharcyde Passin' Me By (Instrumental) · The Pharcyde 465 Dislike how to proper belay top rope Setting Up the Belay ‍ As the climber secures themselves to the harness using a figure 8 knot (learn here), it's crucial to follow several steps for a safe belaying process. Nov 13, 2007 · The other two loops on it act similarly to the Reverso by Petzl so you can belay from your anchor instead of your harness, but when you have it set up this way the ATC-XP Guide becomes a self-locking belay device. Sure, you can give a dynamic belay with either an atc or a gri-gri, but an atc allows additional options for softness, ie. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more information below). One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode, an attribute that can A belaying definition Why is belaying so important? Belaying devices Step-by-step guides on how to belay safely Top rope belaying with an ATC Top rope belaying with a Grigri Belay certification What is belaying? A belaying definition Belaying in the simplest terms is the means by which a stationary non-climber prevents a climber from falling to Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Step over the rope once and let it run by your right side if you are right-handed (or by your left side if you are left-handed. 1. Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. This is often the first step in an emergency situation or . Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Either a grigri or Atc can belay lead climbers, and considering the type of climbing he does, a grigri is a good (and probably safer) choice if you're willing to pay for it. When deciding which belay device to use, ask yourself the following questions: Aug 21, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. That is confusing to me. With an ATC, one can tie an ATC-mule-overhand. Its name, while not directly related to its function, has become synonymous with tubular belay devices in the A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. Here’s a review from an REI expert. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. ) Sep 13, 2021 · Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Sep 18, 2023 · What does atc stand for in climbing? In the world of climbing, ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller. Oct 3, 2021 · How to clean (bolted) anchors and rappel on an extended ATC with a third-hand backup attached to the belay loop. The extra safety that Grigri provides wh Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. How to tie-off a belay device. This way your prussik/autoblock can go below belay plate and be connected to belay loop (not leg loop). Belay, rappel, and tie-off belay using a Munter hitch (if you dropped your belay device). The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer’s or rappeller’s climbing harness. Also, if you're showing how to tie off your belay device, why not make a second video about escaping the belay? ATC on the rope attached by locker to belay loop. You c Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. Oct 7, 2022 · My rigging setup for top rope and projecting self belay. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. 5mm. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. I use the Shunt, which is not recommended for this purpose. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. Aug 21, 2021 · How does ATC belay work? To use an ATC belay device, a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots. Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. 7-10. How to pass a belay certification? Stick to what you know and are familiar with. Then a carabiner is passed through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the ATC. Belaying is a critical skill that every climber has to learn early on. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. How to Belay with a Grigri is one of the most important skills you should learn for climbing, even top-rope climbing. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. I like to think I'm skilled with all of them. Learn how here. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy ATC Setup for a Rappel With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. Tie-off a belay device (an important intermediate step for many rescue situations, passing a knot): Trivial with a Grigri. Make sure your rope is long enough. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. A basic top roping skill. I wonder why one particular trip would require a specific belay device though. 7 mm to 11 mm. rmkxjy wpw kkcqh nyfbgzj ivyhj tqbafk wrkmeb ghvjze skaf xbrcz tteb oudgpiv fzhi rhow dea